Day 1: Landing to Hotel to First Sights
Visiting Japan had been on my bucket list forever, and when I finally made it there in August, it was everything I hoped for—and more. I packed a lot into my 12-day journey, starting with four days in Tokyo, followed by Kanazawa with a great guide, then to Kyoto’s historic charm, and an unexpected early return to Tokyo thanks to a typhoon that threw a wrench in my plans to visit Hiroshima. But first – Tokyo!
Airport to Train to Hotel
Touching down in Tokyo was like stepping into the future. I got off at Narita Airport, turned on my e-sim, and got money out of the ATM, all my list to accomplish in minutes. Way too smooth, I thought (being the pessimist that lack of good sleep makes me). Then, I boarded the train to Shinjuku with a lot of excitement and a little apprehension. I had read many times that this is the busiest station in the world, and often the most confusing.
I got off the train and discovered cell coverage, so I used Google Maps live directions to go around the station to an exit near my hotel. And it actually worked! This part of Tokyo has underground passageways for a few miles that kept me cool and all I had to do was look for my exit C3 and climb those stairs, once outside, I saw my hotel, Tokyo Stay Shinjuku, sitting right there. Of course, it was an hour before my check-in, the hotel let me check my bags, and I then changed into clothes more appropriate for the hot weather and went out the door to discover Tokyo.
Taking Advantage of Daylight
I only had four days, so I hit the ground running and walked over to Yasukuni-dori Ave, two blocks over. This is a massive street and every building has large neon signs, that are bright even during the day. This is true Tokyo. I marveled at the signs and the crowds on the sidewalks and saw one of the buildings I had read about months before: Kabukicho Tower. At first, I didn’t recognize it from the side, but it certainly was tall, though most of it was hidden behind other buildings (and Godzilla, too). Walked around and finally recognized it from the front (or at least what I thought was the front facing the plaza). It was beautiful and a great addition to the Tokyo skyline.
At first, I didn’t recognize it from the side, and most of it was hidden behind other buildings and Godzilla too.
Walked around and finally recognized it from the front (or at least what I thought was the front facing the plaza). It was beautiful and a great addition to the Tokyo skyline.
The sun was starting to set, so I walked to the Seibu Shinjuku Sta. PePe Front Square, believe it or not, is what Google says its name is. The square is pretty famous as the epitome of Tokyo photos with a busy crosswalk (rivaling
Shibuya) and neon and advertising screens everywhere. As it was close to dinner time and I was starting to feel tired, I walked towards my hotel, picked up some sushi (yes so predictable) checked into my hotel, and stayed up as long as I could to help reset my internal clock.
Day Two: Menji, Shibuya, Senso-ji, Kappabashi, Imperial Palace, and Sky View
The next morning, I awoke to sunshine, I was so psyched that I slept through the night. Quickly got ready to go out to near 40C temps and see more of Tokyo. Found a Starbucks, which I usually don’t patronize, but it was there and calling me, and the first two coffee places that Google suggested weren’t open. I had read that it is considered rude to eat or drink and walk, so being the rebel that I am, I got a large coffee to go. Right outside the door, I saw two other locals walking and drinking their Starbucks, so I thought, what the hell? So much for being rude.
Meiji Shrine
This morning’s agenda had Shibuya Crossing on it, but first, I wanted to see Meiji Jingju Shrine, Tokyo’s oldest temple, located about a 15-minute walk from my hotel in this huge park. It was really so much cooler in the park and quieter. Got to the shrine and did the circuit, but the shrine wasn’t open so I just got to look in. Undaunted I headed off to Shibuya. Along the way, I passed some of the Olympic buildings that were used two years ago in the COVID-delayed Olympics and also in the 60’s.
Shibuya Crossing – meh?
Got to Shibuya Crossing and I had to experience the chaos firsthand. Crossing with hundreds of people was indeed interesting, but it wasn’t as mind-blowing as I thought. Most people end up watching it from the huge Starbucks above where everyone looks like ants, but I had decided I gave them already too much of my hard-earned yen. So let’s try the subway system.
Sensi-Ji Shrine and Nakamise Street
I have a habit of trying every city’s subway system, and in Tokyo’s case, I should say systems as they have two. They crisscross each other as well as connect to localized train lines. Now, despite all of this, the system was pretty manageable, especially with Google Maps prompting me. I decided to go to Sensi-Ji Shrine and Nakamise Street, just north of the center of the city.
Pro Tip: Tokyo’s metro system is a lifesaver, but be ready for rush hour—those trains pack in tight!
Nakamise Street is packed, I believe, all the time, so I ended up walking in the outside paths to get to the shrine, as I am not a shopper and had no room for souvenirs. Sensi-ji Shrine is beautiful, and though there certainly were crowds, you could still enjoy the beauty of it (for at least a couple of minutes). Off to the side of the Shrine is a beautiful Pagoda and small gardens with a great statue of Buddha.
Kitchen Street
Leaving this area and all the people, I walked towards Kappabashi Street, also known as Kitchen Street, for its many stores for those in the restaurant business. I wanted to come home with a great Japanese steel knife, and in my research, I knew that this was the place to see them. I spent a couple of hours looking at knives and all things cooking-wise, but could not figure out, without checking my luggage going home, how to transport the knife. I ended up testing out a few of the makers that I knew I wanted to see and decided to buy it online when I got home. Some of the most interesting shops showcased the plastic food that vendors put in their windows, showing their best meals. As you can see from the photos, there were a lot of them. (press arrow on right to scroll)
Chiyoda City
Hopped back onto the subway, now a veteran, and took it to the Imperial Palace area. On any map of Tokyo, you can recognize this area right away because it is a large green area in the center of the city, the proper name being Chiyoda City. As it was midafternoon now, the temperature was getting up there, and it was a long walk to get to just the gate and absolutely no shade. This is why most people carry an umbrella all the time in Tokyo, more for the sun than rain. Though this helped, I was still sweating profusely, like a certain person in a church, as the saying goes. Unfortunately, the Palace (aka Edo Castle) was closed to prepare for an event, so I took photos of the corner house, Fushimi-yagura (1659), part of the original castle, which to me looked like a palace anyways.
Undeterred, I walked to find a subway station
and came across their parliament, the National Diet Building. It is a pretty striking-looking building with a lot of security around it. Unfortunately, the gates and the walls made it h
ard to get a good photo. So, now I’m back on the subway to my hotel to change out of my now-soaked shirt. Luckily, my room had its own washer/dryer, so I did not mind, and I also got to take a quick cool-down shower.
Sky High View
Last on my list for the day was the Tokyo Metropolitan Building, which has two 360-degree observation decks inside (one in each column) and is free to the public. I had pre-arranged a ticket for the deck but was never asked to show it, just escorted into an elevator to the 45th floor. At almost 800 feet, it is the tallest in Tokyo outside of the Minato City ward, where many of the tallest buildings are. The views were amazing to me, though you could not see as far as Mt. Fuji, I am told on a very clear day you can see her. Mt. Fuji ended up being very elusive to me this whole trip.
Day Three: Mt. Fuji, Lake Ashi, and Hakone
Mt. Fuji Is Shy
I got up early to take this excursion to Mt. Fuji and Hakone. The meeting place was near the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. However, many excursion companies use this same spot (it has the LOVE statue as Philadelphia has). Even though I got there in plenty of time, it was a small ordeal to find out which was my group. Once found, they gave us enough time to use the nearest bathroom and get snacks from 7-11. Now, if you’ve not heard, the 7-11s (and their equivalents: Family Mart, Lawsons, Dailys, etc.) are Soooooo much better than in the US and Europe. They are always clean, organized, and their offerings are good food. Their egg salad sandwiches are fantastic, and I don’t even like them that much. This is something I miss every time I go into a convenience store not in Japan.
OK, so the trip to Mt. Fuji was 2-3 hours, depending upon traffic, and luckily, we didn’t have much as we were leaving town. During that time, we were given a brief history lesson on Mt. Fuji, Hakone, Shoguns versus Emperors, and Japan’s reconstruction post-WW2. Once at the highest station, Station 5, of Mt. Fuji, we disembarked, and though we were told that Mt. Fuji is sometimes shy and doesn’t always present herself, we found out she was downright spiteful. Not once peeking out through the clouds, even for a second. Still, the Station is enjoyable and the ice cream is great, and I’m told the Mt. Fuji cakes are good. This was the second time she escaped my view, I knew I had one chance left, either from Tokyo or on the train from Hiroshima back to Tokyo in a week.
Volcano and Hakone
The bus then drove us to lunch, Shinobi No Sato Ninja Village, which was a great place, though incredibly touristy. The buffet lunch was good, and the gardens were beautiful. And if you wanted, you could try out Ninja throwing stars (for a small fee, of course). We then drove to Gora to get on the Hakone Ropeway, which ended up being the highlight of the day due to Mt. Fuji’s shyness. This cable car took us from Gora over the Owakudani Volcano, an active volcano that was fascinating and smelled worse than any old eggs you’ve ever smelled. It also lands you right at Lake Ashi and a wonderful ferry, disguised as an ancient shogun-era clipper boat, brings you across the lake to Hakone.
While we had a little time to see Hakone, I can see why people make it a destination unto itself. Not only are you in a good viewing spot if that damn mountain isn’t being shy. The town itself is charming, and if I had more time, I would have overnighted in Hakone. From there, they offered us to be dropped off at Odawara Station and take a bullet train back into Tokyo or stay on the bus. This would be my first bullet train, and I jumped at the chance. You can see just how fast they go through a station in the video below, and I’m told they slow down a bit going through stations, though it didn’t seem like it. But, it was a quick and pleasant ride back to Shinjuku.
Day Four: Minato City, Odaiba, Gundam, Roppongi, and Some Art
Metropolitan Tokyo has an estimated 41 million people, while the city itself has only 14 million. This is a little sarcastic, as you know, but somehow, you don’t realize is a monster of a city. Luckily, it has some of the world’s best public transportation and is quite manageable for tourists. The truth is, you can see a lot of Tokyo, you just can’t see everything, even if you spend weeks here. Part of my research was to whittle down the list to the most important things for me for this trip while not having too rigid a schedule so that I could just roam neighborhoods.
Obaida District
One of the things on my list was to see the Gundam in Odaiba District. I know this is such a 14-year-old thing to want to see in person, but in my somewhat serious research, I watched a couple of movies with Gundams in them. (Yes, I also watched some Godzilla movies, as well, so don’t judge me.). Took the subway to Tokyo Teleport Station, which isn’t at all as interesting as its name suggests. From there, I walked to the Gundam, which I finally saw as I rounded a corner.
It is so cool to see it in person. This Gundam is stationary, or at least it was while I was there. I know they have those that actually walk in Yokohama, as I’ve seen them on the internet. I did not feel like waiting around for it to move its head. BTW this is Unicorn Gundam, those two points on the top of its head come together to form a horn. In the evening they have a 30-minute light show with various parts turning different colors as it slowly (very slowly) turns its head.
Fuji Television Building
From there it was a quick walk to the Fuji Television Building, which is a strange, modern building with a globe in the interior. Again, a short walk to see their Statue of Liberty, which seemed so out of place here, at least for an American.
Tokyo’s Statue of Liberty
This is 1/7th the size of the one in New York and is also a gift from France. Makes for some interesting photos with the Tokyo skyline in the background.
Speaking of the skyline, I jumped back on the subway and went to the Minato City ward, specifically the Roppongi District. The subway follows under the Rainbow Bridge to mainland Tokyo and was a beautiful ride. Of the 20 tallest buildings in Tokyo, 9 of them are in or near Roppongi and 5 of those are two years old or less. This area has seen huge changes and has become the newest trendy district in Tokyo. (For those that care where the other tallest buildings are: 5 more in Shinjuku where I was staying, and where the Metropolitan Tokyo Government Office was; 3 in Shibuya the district next to Shinjuku, and 3 in Chuo).
Tall Buildings
To appreciate these buildings I decided to go to another observation deck. The Tokyo Tower, which is also in this area, has observation decks, but I read that you usually need to get your tickets in advance. I decided to go to the Mori Building where you get to see art and an observation deck. The art changes and when I went it was Paul McCartney’s early photos being with the Beatles, which was kind of cool. The views were amazing.
National Arts Center
There was still one building that I had on my list to see, the National Art Center. Built over the area that used to be the main camp of Japan’s military during WW2, I had read and seen quite a lot about the building, and it didn’t disappoint in person. The building has a curvy glass front and an atrium of three stories with escalators close to each edge going up, so even the ride is an adventure. The actual museum has no permanent collection, but the building is a work of art unto itself, and it’s free. It was starting to get dark so I hopped back on the subway and made my way back to my hotel. For my first time in Tokyo, I was able to cross many things off my list and never felt rushed. I had one more day, the last of my trip, back in Tokyo and plenty of time to determine what was left on my list mattered most.
On my final day I began to hear about a new typhoon that was born just two days before and was heading towards Hiroshima. UGH, now I have to rethink my plans. Tomorrow morning I take a train to Kanazawa, I am sure I can figure it all out there.
Final Thoughts: Tokyo Was Everything and More
Japan and Tokyo were everything I expected—and yet full of surprises and unexpected subtleties. From the image overload of Tokyo neon and thousands of people crossing a street at one time, to the quiet beauty of its parks and shrines. The food is amazing and the convenience stores even more so! If you’re planning your first trip to Japan, be ready for an adventure—and maybe a few surprises along the way.
