May the road rise up to meet you; May the wind be always at your back; And may the sun shine warm upon your face.
Go to Ireland
Ireland, the Emerald Isle, with its spectacular landscapes, rich and poignant history, and lively culture, is a dream destination for many people, especially Irish Americans. For me it was on my bucket list for years, I just never pulled the trigger as I always went to some place warmer. My grandmother’s grandparents emigrated from Ireland to the US during the potato famine in the mid 19th century. Haley was their family name, which I found out on this trip was more likely originally spelled Healy. As you can probably deduce, I was raised to be proudly Irish. Now, for my 61st birthday, it being August, it had to be warmer, no? I decided to finally commit to going.
If you’re planning your first trip to the Emerald Isle, I hope your experience is just as unforgettable as mine. With ten days to explore this Emerald Isle, you’ll have the opportunity to delve into its iconic attractions, eat some wonderful cuisine, and immerse yourself in the warm Irish culture and its unique history. Here’s how I did my 10-day adventure in Ireland, broken up into three parts, with a Table of Contents to help you navigate, hoping it will be of help to you when planning yours.
Table of Contents
Part One, Days 1-3: Dublin, Northern Ireland
Welcome to the Emerald Isle
My journey began and ended in Dublin, Ireland’s bustling capital city, and the most convenient international airport. Shannon Airport in western Ireland has some carriers that use that airport, but it is just so far west; to plan a circle trip from Shannon would have been more difficult than Dublin. Also, many more budget airlines use Dublin as their Irish hub, which for an impromptu trip like this on Ryanair, meant a lot of savings. Dublin also has many more day trips that were on my list like Giants Causeway, Cliffs of Moher, Belfast, and Newgrange that made that decision easy. However, I quickly found out that Dublin is a very expensive town.
Airport to Dublin
At the airport just outside to the left is where the bus stands are. I was lucky that the people working these lines knew what they were doing and could separate all the tourists into the correct line to make their way into Dublin. My ticket on Dublin Express was €8 and the return was only €2! It took me to Heuston Station (there were several stops all along the river) so I could walk to my room at Destiny Student – Ardee Point.
I know that I do not look like a student, however, the reviews mentioned that while the mean age is approximately 25 or so, many people over 50 do stay there and I found that to be true. Besides, it was still one of the most reasonable accommodations at nearly €116 a night for the private room and bath.
Dublin City Centre
After getting to my room and seeing that it would be fine, I spent my first half day exploring Dublin’s City Centre, using the points I set on my Google Map. (I wrote about this process in Being Safe In Travel article). Walked by the famous Guinness Brewery and knew right away that I would not be going there. I’ve heard it’s great and one of the most popular things to do in Ireland, but as I don’t enjoy beer to begin with, and stout even that much less, I crossed it off my list.
I must confess that I did end up insulting someone accidentally, when they asked if I was going there, and I said no. “Don’t you want your free pint?” they said very enthusiastically. Unfortunately, my reply: “I don’t like beer and stout tastes like dirt.” The words came out of my mouth before I even thought about how insulting it could be. I think I could have called St. Patrick an arsehole and made them less upset. As I could not come up with any type of save, I sort of slinked away.
Dublina, City Hall, and Temple Bar
With it only being a three-hour flight from Spain, I felt like I had plenty of energy to see more of Dublin. I walked from Guinness Brewery down Thomas Street which has some character until I got to the Dublinia with Christ Church Cathedral across the street. Impressive architecture and Christ Church has the first Homeless Jesus statue outside of North America, which impressed me. If you don’t know what this is, it started in Toronto and now they are all around the world, showing Jesus as a homeless person trying to sleep on a bench to get people to feel some love and sympathy for the homeless. It’s a great project.
Dublin Castle
Continuing east I came upon Dublin City Hall and behind it, Dublin Castle. I took a few photos and put these both on my list to come back to later. I then went north a block or two to see some of the Temple Bar area. Much of this part of Dublin is pedestrian traffic only during the evenings and really crowded. On Temple Lane you walk by the the Irish Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and then you come to the next corner and you are at The Temple Bar. Because it is so iconic, I did take some photos, but I was not going to fight the crowds to say I was inside.
From there I felt I had crossed enough off my list that I could just walk around more of the Liberties area without an agenda anymore that night and strolled Grafton Street for a bit. I walked by The Harry Lemon Bar, which I forgot to put on my list, but knew that the movie The Commitments (which I loved) was filmed here. Happy accident. Walked over to St. George’s Arcade because I love this building and then knowing I had some work to do, went back to my room.
Northern Ireland, Giants Causeway, and Belfast
Now I know this will be hard to believe, but the next morning it was raining. Though prepared for it, I was a little disappointed as the weather when I arrived was warm and sunny. Later that day, I was asked how I liked the summer in Dublin, as it was yesterday. Yes, the one day of great weather. Though this was a joke, it somehow had the odd feeling of being closer to the truth than was talked about.
Today was my excursion into Northern Ireland with THIS tour. The bus made a deadhead to the northern coast to the Giants Causeway area. On the way, the guide talked about how this easy drive up the highway wasn’t possible during “the troubles” when all cars were searched going north or south. Made me realize how much Ireland and Northern Ireland have progressed with peace.
We passed the “old man looking out to sea” just north of Portrush and stopped for photos at Dunluce Castle. This abandon castle apparently was used in shots for Game of Thrones (never watched it). On the way to Giants Causeway, we pass two or three more abandoned castles, and we’re told that Ireland has over 600 of them!
Giants Causeway
Finally, around 10:30 we get to Giants Causeway and the sun is out and the weather is perfect. Giants Causeway was on my bucket list for years, and part of three specific items that I wanted to see in Ireland, and I was psyched that it would be first. The long walk from the parking lot to see the Causeway is made much longer by all the beautiful vistas you see along the way. I took so many photos of this dramatic coastline I had to be concerned with how much time I was spending.
A little further and then you see the basalt stones rising from the grounds and you are suddenly to the same place from all the famous photos. I spent so long on the lower path of the Causeway; I didn’t have time to make up to top of the cliff. Don’t make my mistake, take the top path first and then there are the Shepherd’s Steps halfway where you can join the lower path and get close to the basalt stones. I will let my photos do the rest of the talking here about this unreal place.
The Dark Hedges
Leaving Giants Causeway, we made our way east. This tour usually stops at the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge, but it was not part of today’s tour. Instead, we went to the Dark Hedges. Again, a Game of Thrones reference here as it was used more than once in the series, but it has also been used in many movies in the past.
They really are quite impressive, though it’s hard to get a good angle on the trees without hordes of people being in your shot. The beechwood trees are across the street from where the main house still is, but this area is now mostly a hotel and golf course, though the grounds are beautiful. The road is closed to traffic and narrow and still mostly dirt, but used to be the main entrance to the property when the trees were first planted in the 18th century.
Belfast and the Titanic Museum
From here we went into Belfast and to the Titanic Museum. Now originally this was not on my list at all, but the reviews were very good for the museum, so I added it to my tour, and am glad I did. The building is unique and designed to look like four bows of a ship, one the same size as the Titanic, coming together to form the museum.
Inside the Museum
Inside the exhibits are incredibly hands on as you hear and see multimedia presentations on Belfast and the importance of the ship building industry here around the turn of the 19th century. Then the exhibits get more detailed into the White Star Line, the owners of the Titanic, and their dreams for the ship. Finally, they get into the passengers and crew who took that fateful first voyage and this is where the museum really shines.
The Titanic Museum excels when it is putting human faces not only to the super rich that most stories center around, but the second- and third-class passengers, as well as the crew who passed away. As the mood of the exhibit is getting darker, the entire museum gets darker as they show the present watery grave of the ship and the footage that was taken when they finally discovered the shipwreck. It is there were the references to the movie begin with James Cameron’s personal visit to the wreckage and some movie set recreations where everyone can yell “I’m on top of the world” just like Leo did.
Quick Visit to Belfast
Luckily after the museum, there was time for a quick 10-minute stop in the City Center of Belfast near the City Hall, which is quite beautiful. This is where I wish I had an extra day to see and feel more of Belfast, it looked like a great city.
Trinity College and the Book of Kells
The next morning, I went on my final TOUR of Dublin: Trinity College and The Book of Kells. The rules around the Book are so strict that a guide is not allowed to lead the group inside the museum. Though we had a great guide, I do believe that you could buy in advance your own tickets to The Book and still get a lot out of it, as long as you do your research well, if you’re looking for places to economize. And believe me, Dublin is a city you need to economize in a lot!
We met at the entrance to Trinity College and went into the courtyard and the Old Library is just off to the right. Outside our guide gave us the background on The Book, four Gospels, from the 9th century beginning in Scotland, then in Ireland, stored at the Abbey of Kells for years (hence the name) and then gifted to Trinity College to keep it safe from Cromwell’s troops. It really is an impressive piece of art, and one of the actual books are on display, one page opened, changing every few weeks.
Famous Reading Room
From there you head upstairs to the Reading Room which is famous for being one of the most beautiful in the world. Having seen photos of this room for years, I must say, it was just as impressive in real life. In the center is the Brian Boru Harp, which will be quite familiar to anyone who ever drank a bottle of Guinness. The harp is thought to be over 1,000 years old and became a symbol of Ireland through Guinness’ use of it. So much so, that when the Irish Republic was finally founded, they had to get permission from Guinness to use it as the national symbol of Ireland (as it was already their trademark).
Also shown is one of the original posters calling for Irish Independence that finally lit the fuse that caused Ireland to successfully rebel from the English. This story and the background on the Book was part of the guide’s preface to the Old Library and for me, made the Old Library that much more special. Most of the other visitors, had no idea on the history of the harp or the poster and even reading the descriptions doesn’t present all the interesting history. This is one of the reasons the guided tour felt worth it, but again, as I said, you could do the Old Library on your own and save a few Euros.
Molly Malone and Dublin Castle
Leaving Trinity College, we headed up to the statue of Molly Malone, who is partially historic and partially fable, from the Irish song, “Cockles and Mussels” which she sold on the street before dying of cholera. She is very prominently displayed in front of a church, though the part of her resorting to prostitution is often conveniently left out of tours. But hey, you have to make a living.
The tour took us next to Dublin Castle area where first we went to Dubh Linn Garden, an area that used to be a “black pool” or lake filled with eels that gave the city its name. Today it is a nice round grass park within square walls, originally made beautiful for a royal visit, with brick paths formed like eels making Celtic crosses in the middle. Each corner of the garden also has a special section that all differ from one another.
Dublin Castle
The last part of our tour was the courtyard of Dublin Castle, as the interior was not part of the tour. This was another area that guides aren’t allowed to give tours, so they meet as groups outside the gates and explain what to see inside and then let you go in the courtyard on your own. This was also the end of the tour, and we said goodbye to our guide here. Was it a more enjoyable visit to here and the Old Library because of the guide and the TOUR, absolutely yes. Is it something that you could do completely on your own, again, absolutely yes, as long as you did your research ahead of time.
Beatty Museum, St. Bridget’s, and St. Patrick’s
With a half day left in Dublin, I went to the Beatty Museum, that abuts the Dubh Linn Garden. I was not so much interested in the exhibits which were mainly religious manuscripts, but the building, as it is a mixture of old original architecture married with new spaces. It did have a unique timeline of human history, obviously starting with Newgrange and up until the Human Genome project. The bright, covered courtyard connected various part of the museum exhibits and let you pass between older and newer parts of the museum with ease.
From there I wandered St. Bridget’s area, the park at Merrion Square to see the Oscar Wilde reclining statue and a little further, the Michael Collins bust. On to St. Stephen’s Park for a few minutes rest, and to St. Patrick’s Cathedral for my final stop in Dublin.
St. Patricks
St. Patrick’s is an interesting history, in that it’s being built suddenly gave Dublin two cathedrals, something unheard of until then. For the rest of its history, St. Patrick was either neglected or restored depending upon the whims of the royal court. Originally built to honor the well that St. Patrick did his first conversions from, the Cathedral finally was designated as the National Cathedral for Ireland, while Christ Church remained as the cathedral for Dublin. Its most famous member was Jonathon Swift, dean of the church for over 30 years, who is also buried there alongside his “very good friend” Stella (Esther Johnson) who he lived with for many years. (We must keep up appearances.)
Part Two: Days 4-5: Galway and the Cliffs of Moher
The next morning, I left Dublin and headed west to Galway on Ireland’s very dependable national train service, the Irish Rail. The key to using the train service successfully is to set up an account online and then download the app. I came to love using their trains and seeing more of the Irish countryside than flying or driving (and for me, on the other side of the road – didn’t want to repeat Matthew Broderick!)
Walking Tour of Galway
Galway is a lively city known for its traditional Irish music, friendly atmosphere, and powerful river. The train was only 2.5 hours (keep forgetting how small Ireland is) and I arrived at the train station way too early for my Airbnb, but in time for a WALKING TOUR of the city. (NOTE: Unlike most stations, Galway has no luggage lockers, however a couple blocks walk, just beyond the Eyre Square, was a cabbie place that for €5 would hold luggage as long as needed, so I could attend the walking tour I had booked.)
We went first to their Spanish Arch, the last remaining piece of the original bridge and defense wall of the city. It is here that you witness how powerful the River Corrib is as it empties into the bay. Walking along the river you get to the Latin Quarter, Galway’s pedestrian section of the city and at night, the place to be. Lots of restaurants and shopping here, and a great vibe. Since it was misting, we did not take the longer walks through the neighborhood Claddagh and to the beaches of the Salthill Promenade, all south of the city center.
I would also recommend you check out their Cathedral, which is beautiful, and looks so much older than the five decades it is.
The Burren and the Cliffs of Moher
The following day was the TOUR to the Cliffs of Moher, a true natural wonder, and along the way we explore The Burren’s unique limestone landscape and ancient Irish history. The Burren is a large area of County Clare that has limestone rock throughout and ends at the Cliffs of Moher. The ancient history of this area is fascinating with carbon dating people and activity over 33,000 years ago in this area. There are even structures still standing such as the Poulnabrone dolmen, a tomb-like structure for burial ceremonies dating between 3,000 and 4,000 BC, and one of over 150 around Ireland.
Afterward, we arrive at our final destination, the Cliffs of Moher. As you walk from the car park you can go left or south, or right and north. Our guides suggested we go north first as you can go for quite a way and come back and still have time for the southern part, which is shorter. Many make the mistake of starting with the south and spend so much time they have to rush the northern section, which is a crime. As you can see from the photos, some of the hundreds I took, there are many beautiful vistas along the way.
We spent a total of 90 minutes here, with beautiful sunshine, and a cool if not blustery wind that just added to the feeling of the cliffs. I’ll let my photos speak for my experience – it was amazing.
Part Three: Days 6-7: Cork, Killarney, and the Ring of Kerry
From Galway, I had to take a train to Limerick and then change to get to Cork, a charming vibrant city. I spent extra here to stay at a hotel in the center of Cork, near their pedestrian section. I had already made the decision to forego the iconic Blarney Stone, because everything I read said it was not worth going. Instead, I spent what was left of my first day and night exploring Cork as best as I could on foot.
The next day I took a TOUR of the famous Ring of Kerry drive, a 179-kilometer loop that showcases some of Ireland’s most magnificent scenery. Our bus first made its way to Killarney, a charming town that serves as the entrance to the Ring of Kerry. Killarney is the picture-perfect Irish town with tons of character. We were able to explore the downtown area some before we headed off to the north side of the peninsula to start our drive.
Waterville, Sneem, and Torc Waterfall
The first highlight of The Ring of Kerry drive is Waterville, a quaint seaside town that was the vacation home of Charlie Chaplin. His summer cottage, if you can call it a “cottage,” was there and he was often seen taking walks or being wheeled along the sidewalk near the shore. Another stop in Derrynane to quickly see some beautiful shoreline before we start heading back east along the south side of the peninsula.
A quick stop in Sneem for locally made ice cream before heading inland to the Killarney National Park. The vistas here are all various shades of green, blues, and greys and spectacular. A quick stop at Torc Waterfall just south of Muckross and we start heading back to Cork. What a great day.
Days 8-10: Back to Dublin for EPIC and Newgrange
I would have rather chewed a fork than go to see Waterford and its crystal, so I took that off the list. However, I am disappointed I did not get to see the village of Cobh while I was in Cork. This picturesque town has charming streets and homes and could have been done with better planning on my part. However, now I needed to get back to Dublin for my family. No, not my family currently, I am referring to my grandmother’s grandparents. I wanted to find out more about them and had booked a genealogy appointment with an expert at the EPIC Emigration Museum on the north side of Dublin.
EPIC
The EPIC Emigration Museum is world ranked as one of the best museums of its kind and has amazing hands-on exhibits. Even the building it is housed in has history, a customs house for many years, before being abandoned. It was also used in many movies including Michael Clayton in 1996. Outside the museum, near the water, is a very striking set of statues on the period that forever changed Ireland called The Famine. The Irish Famine, or Great Potato Famine, caused Ireland to lose a third of its population to death from starvation and disease and emigration. Incredibly, Ireland still has not recovered its population to this day.
The museum begins downstairs where silhouettes become real people with real stories and how a nation was devastated by misfortune, politics, bigotry, and ignorance. My own family made their way to the United States during this time and the genealogy I have been able to trace makes a hard stop in Ireland just before the famine.
As you go through their exhibits, it is steep in Irish pride of those who helped change world history, highlighting those celebrities from 19th to 21st centuries of Irish decent. Then the museum gets more detailed about the famine and how children were sent overseas for them to live better lives. I highly recommend the museum, especially if you have even the sliver of Irish heritage in you.
Newgrange
My final tour was to Newgrange, about an hour north of Dublin. This unique historical monument that predates both Stonehenge and the Pyramids is finally getting known throughout the world. Newgrange is one of three mounds in the area, the others being Knowth and Dowth.
NOTE: You must have tickets to see these mounds and the tickets do sell out every day. I witnessed two families being turned away thinking they could show up and buy tickets. Also, you don’t go to the mounds, but to the visitor center to begin your tour. I took the train from Dublin to Drogheda and a cab to the visitor’s center, which was much cheaper than an organized tour.
Knowth
You are first taken to Knowth (I paid for both Newgrange and Knowth and for being able to go inside Newgrange). Knowth is really impressive as it has multiple mounds, they have discovered over 15 of them. Most are near the main mound (40 feet high and 200 feet wide) which you are allowed to go up on top of and see the amazing views that people have been seeing for over 5,000 years. The stones that surround the mound are from miles away, no one knows how they were moved there in 3,200 BC and then decorated with ornate etchings.
From there you cross the street to a center that showcases the drawings and a nice video presentation on the discoveries and study of all three monument areas, as well as their reconstruction. Then they take you to Newgrange.
Newgrange
Newgrange is just one large mound with an impressive wall on one side and an entrance. The entire mound was reconstructed during the 20th century and in 1967 they discovered that the entrance and the ceremonial area inside line up with the Winter’s Solstice. So like Stonehenge, temples in Mexico and Egypt, monuments in ancient times like this end up being celebrations of the calendar. For someone who has trouble remembering what day it is, even with an iPhone, this seems incredible.
You aren’t allowed to take photos inside the chamber and only a few are allowed at a time, but I was very happy I paid the extra fee to be inside. It was very inspiring. However, if you have the least little bit of claustrophobia, AVOID going inside. I ended up being finished with my tour quicker than I had thought and was able to take an earlier train back to Dublin to pack and enjoy my last night in Ireland.
Conclusion
A 10-day trip to Ireland offers a taste of the country’s incredible beauty, poignant history, and lively culture. From the bustling streets of Dublin to the rugged cliffs of the Cliffs of Moher, the other-worldly feeling of Giants Causeway in the north, and all the charming towns in between, your adventure will leave you with lifelong memories and a deep appreciation for the enchanting Emerald Isle. Make sure to immerse yourself in researching what you want to see while you are there, as time will go so quickly. Please leave me a comment below and let me know your plans.
Be sure to sample the local culture, taste traditional dishes, immerse yourself in their sad yet glorious history, and, most importantly, interact with the people you meet. Your first trip to Ireland is just the beginning of a lifelong love affair with this enchanting green island. Sláinte (Cheers) to your unforgettable Irish adventure!
Costs
Ireland 10 nights/11 days
Air € 258.33
Train/Bus € 87.47
Taxi € 35.80
Auto € 0 –
Gas € 0 – € 381.60 Total Transp
Food € 684.78 € 62.25 Food per day
Lodging € 1,572.81 € 157.28 a night
Activities € 237.93
TOTAL TRIP € 2,877.12 € 261.56 a day
Thank you for reading my article. If you would like to read about other travel posts you can go to Articles to see all posts, or to Destinations to see them grouped by location. General travel tips can be found here.
