Driving Through the Balkans
Many people have heard of Croatia, especially Dubrovnik and Split, but all the Balkan countries have a lot to offer. I encourage you to think about a two to four-week trip driving around the Balkans, and you will have an excursion you will remember for the rest of your life. How do you do this, you might ask? Well, here is how I did it, with suggestions on how you can be successful.
I landed in Sofia, Bulgaria. I had heard great things about the city, and they were correct. It is a wonderful place with ties to Roman times and modern buildings, and people who like to enjoy themselves and each other. They are friendly to foreigners, and within two days, you can see almost everything on your list. It is also a perfect place to start your Balkans trip.
In starting here, I also gave myself two jet-lag days to walk, caffeinate, and get my bearings—then picked up a rental on Day 3 and pointed south. Over four weeks I traveled across mountains, coasts, and beautiful walled towns. NOTE: There is a photo gallery at the bottom. I just wanted to highlight the plan first.
My route: Bulgaria (Sofia→ Rila Lakes → North Macedonia (Skopje)→(day trip to Kosovo), (Ohrid) → Albania (Berat, Sarandë, Tirana) → Montenegro (Kotor & Perast) → Croatia (Dubrovnik) → Montenegro (Mostar) → Croatia (Split, Plitvice) → Slovenia (Ljubljana) →Slovenia (Bled) →Croatia (Zagreb) → Serbia (Belgrade, Niš) → back to Sofia. Basically, a 3,000 km loop of the Balkans. NOTE: I had been to Romania several times, so I did not include it on this trip. (If you haven’t been, be sure to include Romania in your plans; you will not regret it.)
Rental Car
From my research, I knew to expect a mix of motorways, scenic two-lane roads, short hops on one-lane roads (interesting since they were hardly ever one-way), and a few longer 4–6-hour drives, along with border checks whenever you leave the Schengen zone. For the most part, this was all true, but I never imagined how beautiful so much of it would be.
Now I must admit that I could have done none of this trip without the support of Val & Karl’s Rent A Car Service in Sofia (val-kar.com). Their rates are incredibly reasonable. I got a brand-new SUV, and they took care of all the insurance and permits (vignettes) needed, except for Slovenia (which you must do in person as soon as you enter). My car ended up costing €1,625 in total (including insurance) for 29 days, so €56 a day in August of 2025. They were great to work with, and I’d rent from them again in a heartbeat. I’d encourage everyone to do the same.
Speaking of cars, you really need to investigate stays that include parking. This will save you hours of driving around looking for spots and wondering if your car will be towed in the middle of the night. Almost all of my hotels/B&Bs were able to give me parking or recommend a nearby lot. Those that did not: Dubrovnik, Split, and Zagreb, made for expensive overnight parking, often 25 Euros or more. Plan and budget ahead.
Below is a brief on each of my stops. I will go into details on them in another post, but to give you a taste of why I chose them as milestones and help you plan your Balkan trip.
Sofia, Bulgaria (2 nights, car on Day 3)
Why it’s interesting: Bulgaria’s capital has grand boulevards (some with yellow bricks), Roman roots (baths and water springs), a wonderful pedestrian area (Vitosha Boulevard), all with a backdrop of Vitosha Mountain.
See: Alexander Nevsky Cathedral; the yellow-brick Largo; ruins near Serdika metro; Boyana Church’s medieval frescoes (UNESCO). Grab banitsa and yogurt, then take a cable car up Vitosha Mountain to watch the sunset. Come back and people watch on Vitosha Boulevard.
Driving notes: Bulgaria uses e-vignettes on motorways and many national roads; buy online and register your plate before you begin your journey, if using your own car or a car from another country. (vintrica.com)
Seven Rila Lakes (1 night, 2 days)
So, the most interesting thing about Seven Rila Lakes, besides the beautiful lakes, is that you cannot drive there (even though Google Maps tries). You must park in Panichishte and ride the chairlift up the mountain. Be prepared for any weather. It was sunny when I got on the chairlift, then it rained, then it was sunny at the top; and you have to carry your luggage with you if you are staying at the Chalet Hostel. From the Chalet, you then hike a loop to the glacier-carved lakes either left through a small valley and then up the mountains, or up the steep stairs and get to the top of the hill fast. Most take the second path on their first day.
There are actually more than seven lakes, but for some reason, that name stuck. Each lake is slightly different, and vistas constantly change. Start early for smaller crowds, but be warned, weather changes fast at this altitude. From here, many break up the drive with a less than two-hour trip to the beautiful Rila Monastery. Then it is a three-hour drive to Skopje.
Skopje, North Macedonia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: North of the river is the Ottoman bazaar and mosques, south of the river, modern buildings, lots of restaurants, and of course, the statue of Alexander the Great on a horse in the center of the square. Actually, Skopje has more statues than any other place I’ve been to. See: Stone Bridge; Čaršija (Old Bazaar); Stalinist buildings meet grand ones, Kale Fortress at sunset is beautiful; Mount Vodno & Millennium Cross (currently closed); and a half-day to Pristina, Kosovo.
Driving notes: You’ll pass open-system toll plazas—keep receipts in the car. (Roads.mk). Be sure to have parking included, as it is expensive in the city in the south, and nearly impossible to find on the north side.
Pristina, Kosovo, (1/2 day side trip)
Why it’s interesting: Stalinist architecture meets modern, multiple beautiful mosques and a new cathedral, and being proud of local-born Mother Theresa and Dua Lipa (yes, a bizarre coupling).
See: the striking Newborn Monument (represents Kosovo’s independence, repainted yearly), Mother Teresa Cathedral (you can climb the tower for a panoramic view), Ethnographic Museum (Emin Gjiku Complex) for local culture and history, and the National Library with its bizarre concrete-and-metal lattice design. Don’t miss the café scene along Bregu i Diellit or Qafa district—locals take their coffee seriously.
Driving notes: The highway from Skopje to Pristina is one of the best in the Balkans through scenic rolling hills (about 90 minutes). Expect border control delays—carry your car’s green card (proof of international insurance) or you’ll need to buy temporary insurance at the border. Roads inside the city are busy, and parking is tight; look for the new parking garage near the cathedral in the center of town. Driving time from Skopje to Ohrid is two and a half to three hours, depending on traffic.
Ohrid, Macedonia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: One of Europe’s oldest lakes and a town layered with history, Byzantine icons, and seaside chapels.
See: Church of St. John at Kaneo; Plaošnik archeological park; the Ancient Theatre; take a boat ride on Lake Ohrid. The Lake Ohrid Region is a mixed UNESCO site (nature/culture). (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving: Parking is costly here, but not that hard to find. If your stay doesn’t include it, there are public parking lots near the lake. Note the roads on the side of the mountain are difficult to traverse, and often you have cars coming the opposite way and must back up. Drive from here to St. Naum’s Monastery at the southern end of the lake, just before entering Albania. Great side trip. From here, Berat is a four-hour drive through beautiful mountains.
Berat, Albania (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: The “city of a thousand windows” is due to the distinctive Ottoman-style houses that line the steep hillsides on both sides of the Osum River. Also, climbing up a steep hill to a castle with lived-in homes inside. It is very picturesque.
See: Mangalem & Gorica quarters; the hilltop Berat Castle and Onufri Museum; sunset from the Gorica Bridge. Berat is part of a joint UNESCO listing with Gjirokastër. (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving: So parking here is very strange. My hotel said they had “permission” for their guests to park on the side of this road, and so I left my car there, thinking any day it might be towed. It wasn’t. If you are staying in the older area (side of the hill), you have to park your car and walk up, and I do mean up, to your hotel. Driving from here to the Blue Eye is three and a half hours. Blue Eye to Sarande is 40 minutes.
Sarandë, Albania (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: Beautiful coastline, boat trip to Corfu, Greece, island, quick drive to see Ksamil and the ancient Butrint nearby. Very compact city.
See: Blue Eye Lake is a spring-fed lake, crystal clear with a dark blue spring; Sarande’s promenade is great with restaurants and for watching sunsets; half-day trips to Ksamil and Butrint National Park (UNESCO). (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving: Parking is a premium, and driving in the center of the city is VERY slow. Be sure your hotel offers parking, but you are usually charged for it. Drive time to Tirana (Tirane) depends on whether you drive the highway or go along the coast. (Four hours to six along the beautiful coast)
Tirana (Tirane), Albania (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: A young, creative capital that turned bunkers into museums, has beautiful and quirky modern buildings, a vast central square, and is very walkable.
See: Skanderbeg Square, with modern buildings like the Head Building and 4 Ever Green Tower, as well as the much older Et’hem Bey Mosque; Bunk’Art museums (Cold-War history); Mosque of Namazgah, Tirane Castle filled with restaurants and shops, or take the Dajti Ekspres cable car for city views.
Driving notes: Albania has a few tolls—most notably the A1. Pay at each booth by card. Parking in Tirana was not tricky, and the garages are not expensive. Driving time to Kotor is usually 4 hours, but mine took eight as there were fires along the coast that forced me to go northwest to Podgorica and then over the mountain to Kotor. The road down the hill is a narrow, twisting road that, somehow, a bus caravan was trying to go up and forced all traffic to back up for it. Also, this border crossing from Albania to Montenegro was over an hour long as well (that could have been caused by everyone avoiding the fires).
Kotor, Montenegro (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: A beautiful fjord-like bay that is surrounded by mountains and an old city within ancient walls.
See: See Kotor’s old city early and at night for two distinct looks; climb up Kotor’s Ladder for beautiful vistas (NOTE: an outrageous €15 per person charge to walk there on one path, find the other free one), drive or take a boat to Perast and to Our Lady of the Rocks church on the island. This area is UNESCO-listed. (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving notes: Montenegro has minimal toll roads, and they are in good shape. Parking in Kotor was at my B&B, but it looks to be at a premium, especially near the old section. I would never drive up or down the Serpentine Road (P1) ever again, but you might. Driving time, if you don’t stop off at Perast, to Dubrovnik is two and a half hours, and a beautiful drive.
Dubrovnik, Croatia (2 days)
Why it’s interesting: Beautiful walled old city that is world famous, streets and B&Bs on the side of the mountain with gorgeous Adriatic views everywhere, though very challenging to drive.
See: Full circuit on the city walls (shockingly expensive €40 per person to walk 20 feet above everyone else – skip it); the Stradun main street in the old city; cable car up Srđ mountain; boat to Lokrum. The Old City of Dubrovnik is UNESCO-listed. (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving notes: Croatia’s motorways are toll roads where you pay at exits. (hac.hr) Parking in Dubrovnik is nearly impossible for tourists, and you cannot park in the lots closest to the Old City as they are for locals only. Be sure to get parking at your hotel or stay farther away from the Old City. Driving to Mostar is quick on great roads, less than three hours.
Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina (1 night)
Why it’s interesting: Rebuilt several times, most lately from the Bosnian War. The town is centered on the arched Stari Most bridge, the symbol of the city, and the bazaar around it.
See: Bridge views from the riverbank; Kujundžiluk bazaar; Koski Mehmed-pasha Mosque minaret climb. The Stari Most Bridge and this area of Mostar is UNESCO-listed.
Driving: Roads from Dubrovnik were in great shape and toll-free. Parking in Mostar seemed reasonable, though my hotel offered it, so I cannot say for certain. Driving time to Split is just over two hours.
Split, Croatia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: A living Roman palace that was turned into their downtown. Beautiful seaside views and promenade.
See: Diocletian’s Palace (UNESCO) by day and again after dark; the Riva promenade; climb Marjan Hill; easy day-trip to Trogir ruins (UNESCO). (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving: This is the most confusing city for parking rules. I’d make a strong wager that no one, not even parking enforcement, can accurately tell you the rules. Do yourself a favor and spring for a garage. Driving time to Plitvice Lakes National Park (Entrance 2) is three hours, and it’s best to do it very early in the morning to be there when it opens and be less crowded.
Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (part of 1 day)
Why it’s interesting: Out of this world gorgeous turquoise lakes on terraces linked by boardwalks and waterfalls. A must-visit if driving through Croatia.
Plan: See both Upper and Lower Lakes—go early and follow a long A/B/H route to the most viewpoints. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage park; check the official site for trail maps and to buy timed tickets in high season. (UNESCO World Heritage Centre, Nacionalni park “Plitvička jezera”)
Driving: Parking there is charged, but it isn’t that much. Be sure always to find the bathrooms when you see a sign; they are not that plentiful. Also, take a map or a photo of the park map, as it is very easy to get turned around. Driving time to Ljubljana is four hours. Be sure to buy your vignette as soon as you cross into Slovenia, as they photograph every car on the highway.
Ljubljana, Slovenia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: One of the nicest Balkan capitals with beautiful bridges, statues, markets, promenades, and some great restaurants.
See: Triple Bridge, Central Market, the Ljubljanica embankments, and the omnipresent Ljubljana Castle. (UNESCO World Heritage Centre)
Driving notes: Slovenia uses vignettes for motorways—buy in person as soon as you cross the border at the nearest gas station or market. Roads are in great shape in Slovenia, but there are speed cameras everywhere that also make sure you have your vignette. Driving time to Bled is less than an hour, depending on traffic.
Bled, Slovenia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: One of the most beautiful places on earth, and close to the Alps. Picturesque church on an island in the lake with a castle on top of the hill overlooking the lake.
See: Walk or bike ride around the lake, walk up to Bled Castle, take a full-day tour of the Alps (one of the highlights of my entire trip).
Driving: See notes above on Slovenia vignettes for motorways. Parking in Bled is stupidly EXPENSIVE, paid €12 an hour near the lake. Be sure your hotel offers parking. Driving to Zagreb is two and a half hours.
Zagreb, Croatia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: Lots of great 17th and 18th-century architecture (some of it damaged in the latest earthquake), a thriving café culture, a great pedestrian center on Tkalčićeva Street, Lower Town, and quirky museums.
See: Upper Town (north of the center but also up a hill) with its many restaurants and bars, St. Mark’s tiled roof, and the government center; Dolac Market, Museum of Broken Relationships (among some of the quirky museums), and the Octagon arcade.
Driving: There is a lot of street parking, but I could not find a spot open, so I parked in a garage for €20 a night. Driving to Belgrade is a four-hour drive; fill up in Croatia before going into Serbia. My rental car agent specifically told me not to use Serbian gas. Not sure if that was because of the quality or some prejudice.
Belgrade, Serbia (2 nights)
Why it’s interesting: A lively, historic city with two major rivers, lots of new buildings and infrastructure, and beautiful churches.
See: Kalemegdan Fortress, Knez Mihailova pedestrian zone, beautiful new Belgrade waterfront, St. Mark’s Church, the vast St. Sava Temple, Republic Square with the Old and New Palaces, and the National Assembly.
Driving: Parking was not near my hotel, so I parked in a garage, which was €25 a night. Driving time to Nis was three hours, on a road that confusingly goes from highway to having cross streets intermittently.
Niš Serbia (1 night)
Why it’s interesting: Roman crossroads with sobering Ottoman-era reminders. Also, needing to return my car in Sofia by noon, I wanted to be close to Sofia.
See: Skull Tower (Ćele Kula), creepy and meant to be that way, Niš Fortress; stroll along the Nišava and have dinner before the final leg back to Sofia.
Driving: Parking in Nis was at my hotel, but it didn’t look like it would be an issue. Driving to Sofia is a little over two hours, but add time for a slow border crossing.
Sofia, Bulgaria (1 night)
Return of rental car and flight home.
Border Crossings & Paperwork
- Schengen: Croatia, Slovenia, Bulgaria, and Romania are in the Schengen area, so crossing here is easy. But you’ll exit Schengen when you enter North Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro, Bosnia, and Serbia, and there will be border gates when you re-enter the Schengen Area. Carry your passport for every non-Schengen border, and present any insurances, car registrations, or car rental contracts if asked.
- ETIAS/EES: Coming soon ETIAS pre-travel authorization. EES starts rolling out on October 12, 2025, with ETIAS expected after that. EU Entry/Exit System (EES) and the European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) are two distinct but interconnected digital systems designed to enhance border security and manage short-stay travel within the Schengen Area. Always reconfirm close to departure. (Travel Europe, Fragomen)
- International Driving Permit (IDP): often needed to rent a car in Europe, get one.
- Bosnia & Herzegovina: U.S. drivers must carry an IDP + U.S. license. (Travel.gov)
- Serbia: A U.S. license with IDP is the rule for short stays. (Travel.gov)
- Elsewhere, rules vary, and police may ask—so bring an IDP; AAA issues them in most US states. (AAA)
- Insurance (“Green Card/IMIC”): For non-EU countries on this loop (BH, Serbia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia), your rental company can issue cross-border authorization and, if needed, an International Motor Insurance Card (“Green Card”). Many borders recognize number plates as proof within a multilateral agreement, but rental desks and some officers still want the document—ask at pickup and carry it. (cobx.org).
Road Rules that May Be Different for Americans
- Vignettes & tolls:
- Bulgaria and Slovenia: buy vignettes before using motorways, or as soon as you enter the nearest gas station. (vintrica.com)
- Croatia & Serbia & North Macedonia: no vignette—pay toll booths (keep receipts). (hac.hr, Roads.mk)
- Montenegro: only a couple of toll roads—the Sozina tunnel and A1 motorway. (Monteput) NOTE: Could not figure out an English version of this site
- Albania: limited tolling (notably A1). But they are building a massive new national highway, which may be completed by 2027.
- Headlights in daytime: Required year-round in Slovenia and Serbia; seasonal in Croatia (Nov 1–Mar 31), even during daytime—safer to drive with lights on everywhere, always. (European Union)
- Alcohol limits: Often lower than in the U.S. (as low as 0.02%–0.05%). The easy rule: don’t drink and drive.
- (See each country’s travel guidance.) (Travel.gov)
Money, phones, and tiny hassles
- Currencies you’ll juggle: euro (€) in Slovenia, Croatia, Montenegro; lek (ALL) in Albania; denar (MKD) in North Macedonia; convertible mark (BAM) in Bosnia; dinar (RSD) in Serbia; lev (BGN) in Bulgaria. Credit cards work widely, so I never carry anything but Euros; some suggest small cash for tolls, parking, and bathrooms, but Euros seem to work here too.
- City driving/parking: If your hotel/B&B doesn’t provide parking, you’ll have to park outside the old towns (Dubrovnik walls, Kotor, Split palace core, Mostar), and I’d suggest using garages over municipal lots. Don’t let parking become a recurring negative issue for your trip; research it thoroughly beforehand.
- Fuel & safety gear: Gas stations are frequent on main corridors, but be sure you get from the rental car what type of gas you will need and precisely what it is called in each country; many countries require a warning triangle, reflective vest, and first-aid kit in the car—your rental should include them, but first check.
- My rental car warnings: So I had a tough first three days with my rental car beeping at me if I went one km an hour over the speed limit, and the lane assist yanking the steering multiple times (often unsafe), so I researched how to turn these off. Then on, I loved driving my car.
Daily driving
- Short drives (2–3 hrs): Sofia→Rila; Skopje→Ohrid; Kotor→Dubrovnik; Mostar→Split; Ljubljana→Zagreb; Belgrade→Niš; Niš→Sofia.
- Longer drives (4–6+ hrs incl. border time): Rila→Skopje; Ohrid→Berat; Berat→Sarandë; Sarandë→Tirana; Tirana→Kotor; Split→Plitvice; Plitvice→Ljubljana; Zagreb→Belgrade. Add a time buffer for any one-lane, mountain, or summer border queues at border crossings.
- Border crossings (often more than an hour each), I was not prepared for how long some border crossings took to go through both countries’ immigration and customs. Be sure you are fueled before you attempt a border crossing when leaving or entering the Schengen Area or two non-Schengen countries.
Last-mile tips for the rental
- Before you book: Tell the agency your whole route; ask for written cross-border permission, vignettes, and a Green Card/IMIC if they provide it. Check that driving into Bosnia-Herzegovina and Serbia is allowed (some brands restrict). Note that some routes are older and cross other countries’ borders (driving near Greece has a few), so add possible driving countries that are close to your trip just in case.
- At pickup: Confirm vignette coverage (I had to do Slovenia’s in person), spare emergency kit and tire, gas type for each country, and whether the company requires your IDP—not just by law.
- At borders: Keep passports, registration/contract, insurance/Green Card, rental car contract, and toll receipts handy and organized.
- Download Google Maps: Not just the app but the actual maps (search online on instructions) so that even if you do not have internet, your maps will still work and so will navigation.
In Conclusion
I know this seems impossible at first, but I hope this plan will be helpful to you. This is a great trip, no matter how you end up doing it. Yes, you might be able to do some, if not most of this, using buses. But I am not the type to enjoy that versus driving on my own.
This takes planning. Pay attention to details. So that when it comes time, actually, to drive the route, you can enjoy the incredible scenery and the journey!
