Let’s be honest: when you tell people you’re going to New Zealand for three weeks, they give you that look—the one that says, “Oh, you’re going to find yourself among the sheep and the mountains, aren’t you?” Well, I did find a lot of sheep. And I definitely found the mountains. But I also found that even with 22 days (4 for just traveling there), New Zealand is a country that demands you slow down, or it’ll wear you out, or worse yet, you will miss something beautiful. I just wrapped up a 3,000-mile trip from Auckland to Queenstown to Christchurch, and while my credit card is still smoking from the very high costs of the country (equal or worse than Europe), I’ve got some great stories for you.
The “Transit” Truth: Doha and the Art of the Long Haul
Before we even talk about Kiwis (the birds and/or the people), let’s talk about the flight. I flew Qatar Airways through Doha. If you’re over 50, you know the “marathon flight” is the ultimate test of endurance. As I am currently living in Southern Spain, I chose the exact opposite spot on the planet and the longest trip I could ever make: New Zealand. (https://www.antipodesmap.com/ is a fascinating site that shows you your polar opposite spot on Earth)
Michael’s Tip:
If you have a layover in Doha, take the Discover Doha Tours offered by Qatar Airways at the airport. The one at night (1 am for me) is a 3-hour whirlwind that beats sitting at a terminal gate, staring at your reflection as the lounges and restaurants are all closed.
Just don’t expect to be “rested” when you get back on that plane to go to Auckland. I arrived at 9 PM and felt like a piece of luggage misplaced in 1994. However, a short walk to see a little of my neighborhood, and I was in bed by 11 pm, so I had no jet lag when I woke up at 6 am! One small benefit!
The North Island: Glowworms, Hobbits, Redwoods, and Volcanoes
I picked up my wheels in Auckland and headed south. I would really recommend Go Rentals; they were fantastic to work with for my car rental.
Waitomo Glowworm Caves:
It’s a bit of a tourist conveyor belt, but there is something undeniably magical about sitting in total silence in a boat, in the pitch black, looking at thousands of tiny blue-ish lights. (There are several places in Waitomo to do this, and other places in the North Island. I went to the main one as it was closest to Auckland and my first day of driving on the left.)
Hobbiton:
Even if you aren’t a “Lord of the Rings” or “Hobbit” nerd, the craftsmanship at the Shire’s Rest and Bag End is incredible (and yes, I am a nerd, read the books and seen the movies multiple times, including all six direct extended releases just before I left!) I had a ginger beer at the Green Dragon Inn and felt about three feet tall—which, at my age, is just a standard Tuesday.
Rotorua:
You smell it before you see it (sulfur, anyone?). There are many places nearby to see the volcanic mud baths and hot water bathing, but honestly, once I smelled it, I didn’t go. However, I did do the Redwoods Treewalk. Walking across suspension bridges among 100-year-old giants, 40 to 80 meters off the ground, was a blast. They also have the entire park open at night and lit up, but I was too tired to come back, especially after I heard the line could get up to an hour long just to get in.
Tongariro National Park:
It lies in the center of the island, and you must drive past it to travel from North to South. Has some of the best hiking trails in New Zealand, with terrain that is very interesting.
Wellington
The capital of New Zealand is a beautiful city with plenty to do and see. The capital grounds are easy to reach on foot, and downtown is very pedestrian-friendly. There are also the WETA sites that did the special effects for the LOTR movies, and several filming sites are scattered around the city.
The Great Divide: The Interislander Ferry
Crossing from Wellington to Picton is called “one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world.” It also isn’t cheap to bring your car, but you only live once.
The Reality: It is, and it was beautiful when I did it. Sunny skies and light winds made for a smooth 3.5-hour crossing. But I’m told, the Cook Strait can be a moody beast, and the crossing can be an advertisement for Dramamine.
- Here’s the rub: If you’re prone to seasickness, take the pills, patches, and wristbands – I did all three!) before you see the boat. I spent most of the three hours staring firmly at the horizon like a seasoned sailor, mostly because I didn’t want to see my lunch a second time. And let’s face it, the views are amazing!
The South Island: Wine, Stars, Sounds, and Mountains
This is where New Zealand turns the “Epic” dial up to eleven.
Wine Vinyards in the Marlborough region:
There are dozens of wineries in the Marlborough region, and they have wonderful wine. It was raining on my first day in the South Island, so I spent the day driving from vineyard to vineyard.
Kaikoura & Hanmer Springs:
Coastal views followed by alpine thermal retreats. It poured while I was in Kaikoura, so I couldn’t do the Peninsula Walk. Instead, I saw Zootopia 2 and ate too much. Drove to Hanmer Springs, a beautiful mountain town, with springs and a waterpark.
Arthur’s Pass and Castle Hill:
A dramatic drive through the Southern Alps, stopping at Castle Hill, which is amazing. I then drove to Arthur’s Pass to stay at the historic Bealey Hotel and marvel at the mountains.
Mt. Cook and Stargazing in Twizel/Lake Tekapo:
I did the Stargazing with Go Tekapo. Looking through a 14-inch telescope in the world’s largest Dark Sky Reserve makes your daily problems feel very, very small. I purposely scheduled my trip to be here during a new moon. And it did not disappoint. It’s hard to worry about anything when you look at the Milky Way for the first time, easily seen without a telescope. But they also brought a huge telescope, which let us see Saturn’s rings and moons, and another galaxy. I had reserved a second tour with Big Sky Stargazing near Mt. Cook, but it was unfortunately cancelled due to overcast skies. Glad I had scheduled two! This area also features some of the most beautiful, still-snowcapped mountains in the middle of summer, and ice-blue glacier lakes.
Wanaka, Queenstown, and Milford Sound:
Stayed one day in a great city, Wanaka, centered around a big lake. Then drove, rested, to Queenstown, a great little town with a wonderful downtown. I took a “Cheeky Kiwi” tour from Queenstown. It’s a 12-hour day, mostly on a bus. Is it worth it? Yes, and I was so glad I didn’t drive. It’s beautiful and visited by millions each year for a reason.
The Final Stretch: Queenstown to Christchurch:
After the adrenaline of Queenstown (and that 6:00 AM wake-up call for Milford Sound), the drive up to Christchurch is the ultimate “cool down.” It’s a long stretch of road, and by this point, I was on a first-name basis with my rental car; it was my longest drive by far (7 hours). But here is where I turned in my car and started my journey back to Spain.
The Canterbury Plains:
Driving through this part of the South Island is like being inside a Windows desktop wallpaper. Huge, flat expanses framed by the Southern Alps.
Seeing Christchurch:
I wrapped up the trip here. After weeks of motels and lodges, staying in a boutique spot right in the heart of the city was the “adult” way to end the journey. Christchurch has changed so much since the earthquakes—it’s got this resilient, creative energy now that’s really worth exploring on foot.
The Long Way Home
Dropping off the car at the Christchurch airport felt like saying goodbye to a travel partner. Then came the “fun” part: Christchurch to Auckland, a three-hour layover, and then the long-haul back to Doha and home.
The Reality Check: By the time I landed back in Spain (AGP), I had crossed so many time zones that I wasn’t sure if it was Tuesday or 1985. But that’s the price you pay for going exactly halfway around the world. As I always say, the jet lag fades, but the stories? Those stick around.
Final Thoughts (For Now)
New Zealand isn’t a “check-the-box” destination; it’s more of “what can I fit into my schedule,” and making hard choices. I finished in Christchurch, dropped off the Go Rental (thankfully in one piece), and headed home.
Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. But maybe I’d bring more money and someone to share the views and experiences with.
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